What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original color?
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- Master Mechanic
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What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original color?
Here are pictures of a 42 NZ 350 WH with original paint.
Was grinded in the post-war period and painted black.
Originally this NZ was WH-gray and afterwards painted with a brush with late RAL7028, markings of the brush are still to be seen.
Would it be worth the black lacquer completely to remove and the NZ leave as it is, or better sandblasting and re-varnish?
I mean, it can renewed at anytime, but back to original is not possible when renewed.
Greeting,
Martin
Was grinded in the post-war period and painted black.
Originally this NZ was WH-gray and afterwards painted with a brush with late RAL7028, markings of the brush are still to be seen.
Would it be worth the black lacquer completely to remove and the NZ leave as it is, or better sandblasting and re-varnish?
I mean, it can renewed at anytime, but back to original is not possible when renewed.
Greeting,
Martin
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- Assistant Mechanic
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Re: What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original colo
Hello Martin , most of the pictures show me an white paint !!
is it al yellow like the NZ yellow form an younger periode ??
I know some Bikes & KFZ ed. where painted white do too the snow conditions
may be that is an awnser ??
but it could be an primer too from postwar time ??
is it al yellow like the NZ yellow form an younger periode ??
I know some Bikes & KFZ ed. where painted white do too the snow conditions
may be that is an awnser ??
but it could be an primer too from postwar time ??
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- Master Mechanic
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Re: What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original colo
All your sugestions are possible, we continue scratching.
Re: What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original colo
Hi
How much work it is and how good the result of color removal will be in the end is entirely dependent on how well-made the various on-lacquering is performed. To begin with, it's only to say that the painting of military vehicles during WW 2 was never good and got worse the longer the war was on. it only makes sense why waste materials on any thing thats probability is gone in about three months.
After the war they wanted to hide all military history and get the vehicles on the road as quickly as possible. There was a shortage of everything so the first repaint is usually of very poor quality and the factory painting is of better quality . The worse repainting the better to remove. The problem is usually that you can have sanded off much of the original paint in the process.
I also have a Willys Jeep from the 45 that I have developed parts of the original label on. On Jeep forums the threads on this subject is almost endless. One of the more popular methods in the United States is putting on paint remover and above it a layer of plastic to slowdown the process. I have never been able to get this method to work well, which may be because we have other environmental regulations for chemicals in Europe and therefore a different composition of the products. One method that may work but that requires a good touch and personal protective equipment is to solve the color with paint thinner. Apply with a damp cloth, wait a bit (some were between 10 sec and a minute) and wipe off the paint.
My personal favorite is to use a hot water wash. Heat as high as possible, then flush away the unwanted paint layers. It is a very slow process but the presision on what you remove is very good.
Thereafter, there is the question of how to protect a 70 year old color of poor quality? Wax gives a too smooth/shiny surface. Various oils gives in my opinion a better surface on the mat finishes.
I will enclose some photos of how the Jeep looked before I started to remove the color and some detail after color removal as soon as i figure out how to enclose photos.
How much work it is and how good the result of color removal will be in the end is entirely dependent on how well-made the various on-lacquering is performed. To begin with, it's only to say that the painting of military vehicles during WW 2 was never good and got worse the longer the war was on. it only makes sense why waste materials on any thing thats probability is gone in about three months.
After the war they wanted to hide all military history and get the vehicles on the road as quickly as possible. There was a shortage of everything so the first repaint is usually of very poor quality and the factory painting is of better quality . The worse repainting the better to remove. The problem is usually that you can have sanded off much of the original paint in the process.
I also have a Willys Jeep from the 45 that I have developed parts of the original label on. On Jeep forums the threads on this subject is almost endless. One of the more popular methods in the United States is putting on paint remover and above it a layer of plastic to slowdown the process. I have never been able to get this method to work well, which may be because we have other environmental regulations for chemicals in Europe and therefore a different composition of the products. One method that may work but that requires a good touch and personal protective equipment is to solve the color with paint thinner. Apply with a damp cloth, wait a bit (some were between 10 sec and a minute) and wipe off the paint.
My personal favorite is to use a hot water wash. Heat as high as possible, then flush away the unwanted paint layers. It is a very slow process but the presision on what you remove is very good.
Thereafter, there is the question of how to protect a 70 year old color of poor quality? Wax gives a too smooth/shiny surface. Various oils gives in my opinion a better surface on the mat finishes.
I will enclose some photos of how the Jeep looked before I started to remove the color and some detail after color removal as soon as i figure out how to enclose photos.
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- Assistant Mechanic
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Re: What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original colo
Hi Martin , for paint remove ACETON is useble too.
but be caseful , may be try it on an small peace , if good than the top layer wil
come off .!!
lets see how progress will follow !!
may be you can keep us informed on this one !!
Greats
Raimond
but be caseful , may be try it on an small peace , if good than the top layer wil
come off .!!
lets see how progress will follow !!
may be you can keep us informed on this one !!
Greats
Raimond
Re: What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original colo
Sins i dont sems to be abel to post a attachment on this page then i will post a link to another page whit the picktures. http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f= ... 7&start=60
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- Assistant Mechanic
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Re: What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original colo
Nice work Asplund !!!
greats
Motorboy
greats
Motorboy
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- Master Mechanic
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Re: What do you think about this NZ WH350 with original colo
Seems that the beige color is postwar primer.
The WH-gray and primer red is original.
Does anyone have a rearfender model till '42 for this NZ?
Martin
The WH-gray and primer red is original.
Does anyone have a rearfender model till '42 for this NZ?
Martin